The top-shelf Cantina Terlano 2017 Alto Adige Terlaner Grand Cuvée Primo is mostly Pinot Bianco (70%) with smaller parts Chardonnay (27%) and Sauvignon Blanc (3%). Although the Chardonnay only clocks in at about one-third of the blend, this grape ultimately makes the biggest impact, both in terms of bouquet and mouthfeel. For a white blend, there is a good amount of oak tannin and even a touch of phenolic bitterness that softly disappears with time in the glass. The bouquet is strongly driven by chalky minerals at the front, with orchard fruit, pressed flowers, lilac and savory mountain herbs. This wine shows that Cantina Terlano magic, with a precious few 2,741 bottles made.

The 2007 Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco Rarity is a work of true beauty. This aspirational wine (with a mere 3,330 bottles in existence) offers incredible aromatic intensity and complexity with Meyer lemon, plantain or unripe banana, orchard fruit, sour crab apple and even a touch of freshly shucked peas. Of course, there is plenty of that characteristic chalky minerality that is so specific to wines made in the Italian Dolomites. The mouthfeel is broad and pliant with a large expanse. It shows much of the added volume and creaminess you can expect of a carefully aged wine. However, this wine never reveals its true age, and it would be almost impossible to guess that this is a 13-year-old white wine.

The 2017 Alto Adige Terlano Riserva Nova Domus is a blend of 60% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc that perfectly embodies the house style and philosophy. The wine is soft, rich, deep and profound with a medley of stone fruit, peach, melon and citrus aromas that segue to crushed stone, light spice, saffron and honey. Partial malolactic fermentation in oak and sur lie aging adds to the creamy richness and subtle structure conferred by this true beauty of the Italian Dolomites. Some 33,000 bottles were released.

The 2017 Alto Adige Pinot Noir Riserva Monticol is a fine and delicate expression with a luminous, gem-like garnet appearance. Nuanced aromas of wild berry, tart cherry, candied orange peel, cola and blue flower create focus and intensity. These are gorgeous results, and the dry 2017 growing season has evidently helped to concentrate the wine's perfumes and flavors. This is a standout expression of Italian Pinot Noir (with 35,000 bottles released).

This wine is liquid magic and is always a highlight in my annual tasting from Alto Adige. The Cantina Terlano 2017 Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco Riserva Vorberg is one of the most impressive expressions of the grape to emerge from this mountainous region in the far north of Italy. The 2017 vintage delivers enormous sharpness and attention to detail. It showcases pear, Golden Delicious apple, crushed limestone or chalk and spicy hints of Persian saffron. These delicate and elegant aromas are followed by a structured and concentrated mouthfeel with beautiful texture and length. The wine is fermented in oak barrel, thus adding to the palate richness, and it completes malolactic fermentation in full. It then ages on the lees for 12 months in traditional oak barrel. Production is 55,000 bottles.

The 2018 Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Lunare opens to a luminous off-gold color and substantial aromatic intensity. The bouquet is redolent of sweet peach, honey, candied almond, star jasmine and preserved lemon. This is a generous, full-bodied expression with lots of glycerin, richness and texture that is especially well played in this vintage. There is a subtle note of peachy-sweetness on the finish. The wine ages on the lees for nine months, partially in wooden barrel and partially in stainless steel. Production is 17,000 bottles.

The 2018 Alto Adige Terlano Chardonnay Kreuth opens to a pretty medley of Meyer lemon and sweet almonds, with some distant cinnamon or vanilla spice at the back. There are tangy layers of rosemary or lavender essence and even a touch of savory laurel leaf. This cool-climate Chardonnay is rich, creamy and beautifully textured with soft and lasting intensity. This is a terrific medium-bodied choice for baked codfish or spicy chili crab. The wine's texture is enhanced by sur lie aging in both wooden barrel and stainless steel. Production is an ample 65,000 bottles.

Cantina Terlano is on a roll with this fabulous set of new releases. The 2017 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Porphyr (with 22,000 bottles released) offers the deep and dark aromatic intensity that is characteristic of this native grape of Northern Italy. The wine is named after the distinctive porphyry igneous rock found in the Dolomites. There are notes of dried plum, blackberry, tilled earth and cola. The quality of fruit is quite raw and primary, followed by soft tannins and more savory tobacco, spice and charred meat on the close. This is a rich and generously layered wine to pair with a hearty winter stew and a side of polenta.

This is a versatile and handy wine to drink throughout the warm season and beyond. The 2019 Alto Adige Pinot Bianco Tradition offers a classic interpretation of the grape with aromas of pear, Golden Delicious apple, crushed almond and that characteristic note of white dolomitic rock that is so beautifully distinctive in the wines of Alto Adige. This price point is super attractive, and you get phenomenal value with this 110,000-bottle release, so I can't help but recommend that you buy this terrific wine by the case, not the bottle. These results are exciting and extremely satisfying.

The lovely 2019 Alto Adige Terlaner Cuvée is fresh and buoyant with citrusy notes that are followed by wild sage, crushed stone, spicy saffron, toasted pine nut, Golden Delicious apple and crispy pear. The cuvée is a blend of 60% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc, and the results are only partially aged in oak (about 20%) to add a little extra dimension and texture. The wine underlines its primary fruit and the youthful intensity that is achieved with the 2019 vintage. Salty mineral notes appear on the close. An ample 220,000 bottles were produced, and you get terrific value here.

The Cantina Terlano 2017 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Gries stands apart from the estate's Lagrein Riserva Porphyr, thanks to a slightly more tart and acidic fruit profile. Like the other wine, the Gries primarily delivers dark fruit intensity with plum cake and black cherry; however, you also get some zesty spice and crisp forest fruit that makes your mouth pucker. There is a lot of pretty energy and intensity in this Northern Italian Lagrein. Production is 45,000 bottles.

The Cantina Terlano 2019 Alto Adige Chardonnay Tradition is a lean-bodied expression with just enough texture and creaminess to accompany shellfish dishes or white meat. The wine pours from the bottle with lightness and luminosity, imparting aromas of melon, peach, white almond and a touch of dry Mediterranean herb. These elements come together with seamless transitions and pretty energy. This is a widely available value wine, with 60,000 bottles made, that really hits the spot, especially on a warm and sunny afternoon.

The 2019 Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Tradition offers a pretty, off-gold color with fragrant tones of honeysuckle, star jasmine and tropical fruit. There are heavier, glossy aromas as well that remind me of new rubber boots, saffron and even a touch of cumin. This is a beautifully rich, mid-weight expression of the fragrant Gewürztraminer grape, with some distant stickiness and sweetness. Production is 100,000 bottles strong.

This line of "Tradition" wines offers some of the best value you will find in Northern Italy. The Cantina Terlano 2019 Alto Adige Müller Thurgau Tradition opens to rich aromas of tropical fruit, summer peach, candied almond, dried sage and crushed limestone. Those mineral notes appear with greater intensity in the mouth, giving the wine an almost—but not quite—dry finish. This is a soft and rich expression to pair with spicy and fragrant Thai curries. Production is 30,000 bottles strong.

The 2019 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio Tradition is another fantastic value wine that matches the simple versatility of the grape with the cool and crisp personality of the Italian Dolomites. The wine pours from the bottle with pretty luminosity, and the bouquet presents classic aromas of pear, melon, apple and almond. There's a fun touch of saffron, dried mint and crushed oyster shell that adds an extra layer of dimension and depth. Production is an ample 100,000 bottles.

The 2019 Alto Adige Terlano Sauvignon Winkl opens to a luminous and reflective appearance. Varietal aromas of tangerine and citrus fruit are there, but the wine feels a bit heavy and one-dimensional overall, especially compared to the vivid and expressive vintages of the recent past. Salty mineral tones add a touch of elegance. This is one of Cantina Terlano's largest-production wines with 240,000 bottles released.