Enticing nose, floating from aromas of grapefruit, white pepper and spices to flint, dried-papaya and pineapple notes. Medium-to full-bodied with layers of stone, green and even tropical fruit and a long finish. Phenolic yet zesty and vibrant. Always one of Italy’s great white wines. Drink now.

This deep and complex, maturing wine is proof that pinot bianco can give wines as great as any chardonnay. Concentrated and delicate with remarkable vitality for its age. A very long, smoky and mineral finish. Drink or hold this almost timeless masterpiece.

There’s a heap of concentration on the nose of this with brambleberries, hot stones, blackberry essence, eucalyptus, pressed lavender and violets and vanilla. The palate is very sophisticated with chewy tannins, some well judged, balancing acidity and a long finish. Drink in 2020.